Roads Less Traveled

La Paz / Balandra

E. Grande/San Fran.

Agua Verde

Loreto Area (1)

Loreto Area (2)

Bahía Concepción

San Carlos

Chivato/Concepción

Loreto Area (3)

La Paz Islands

La Paz Area

Southern Sea of Cortez, Baja California Sur, Mexico

        Arizona Arkansas California Florida Idaho Indiana Kansas Michigan Mississippi Montana Nevada New Mexico Oregon South Dakota Utah Washington Wyoming _______________ Canada Caribbean Mexico-Baja Mexico-N. Pacific Mexico-MidPacific Mexico-S. Pacific Mexico-SeaCortez La Paz / Balandra E. Grande/San Fran. Agua Verde Loreto Area (1) Loreto Area (2) Bahía Concepción San Carlos Chivato/Concepción Loreto Area (3) La Paz Islands La Paz Area Mexico-Inland

Click images to see more on each area.  Mexico Maps shows the geographical layout.

Mid-April, 2011 - We stopped in at La Paz, strolling the pretty malecón boardwalk and finding

provisions for the galley and for the boat.  A brief venture to Bahía San Gabriel taught us the horrors

of the springtime Coromuel winds in La Paz and the value of choosing the right anchorage.  We found

the perfect anchorage in Puerto Balandra where leisurely days spun into peaceful nights, and we

were surrounded by gorgeous beach scenery.

Late April, 2011 - Our first island stops in the Sea of Cortez were the Ensenada Grande anchorage at

Isla Partida and the popular "hook" anchorage at Isla San Francisco.  Suddenly we were immersed in

nature at the colorful confluence of the southwest's lush, rugged desert landscape and the inviting yet

unpredictable waters of the Sea of Cortez.  From ideal tropical beach settings to red rock canyons to

scrambling hikes to cliff overlooks, we soon felt civilization slipping away.

Late April-Early May, 2011 - We stopped at several anchorages on our way north, getting a surprise

fish delivery to Groovy at San Evaristo and a surprise bee invasion at Puerto Los Gatos.  Taking

refuge from a late season Norther at Bahia Santa Marta, we rocked and rolled in bone jarring swell for

three days.  All this made our arrival in idyllic Agua Verde even more sweet.  With views to die for,

free ranging goats and cattle, and a lively beach-front fishing economy from yesteryear, this dustry,

tight-knit village won our hearts completely.

May, 2011 - We continued to revel in the Sea's natural beauty, both colorful cliffs on Isla Carmen's

east side and white sand beaches at Isla Coronado.  What a shock, then, to stop in at Ensenada

Blanca where the first phase of a multi-gazillion dollar resort dominates the bay.  Reading Steinbeck's

Log of the Sea of Cortez made me realize that the Sea has been undergoing this transformation from

rugged wilderness to elegant resort for over 70 years.

Late May, 2011 - We continued paralleling Steinbeck's experiences as we explored Puerto Escondido

and the town of Loreto.  Here we thought about the nature of dreams and the evolution of Baja

California from simple fish camps and villages to trendy upscale towns.  In between musings we tended

to more practical things like getting provisions, haircuts and dental care.

June, 2011 - After a final spring Norther at Isla Coronado that saw Groovy challenged more than she

had ever been, we sailed north to San Juanico and the many bays and beaches of Bahía

Concepción.  Here we found peace and tranquility, beautiful hikes, expansive views, and a vibrant ex-

pat community with new shoreside friends on the beach.  The cares of the world slipped away.  After

these dreamy days we left the boat in a slip in San Carlos, Mexico and eventually drove our fifth

wheel to the Flagstaff, Arizona area.

Early October, 2011 - We returned to Groovy after our last summer RVing days in Williams, Arizona.

Suddenly we found ourselves back in our beachwear enjoying beers at a beach palapa.  San Carlos

is where our cruising dreams first developed and was our major transition point this year between our

life afloat and life on the road.  We pondered these things as we prepped the boat for a second

season of cruising.

Mid-October, 2011 - We stopped at Punta Chivato where the beach was thick with shells.  We explored

the lovely grounds of a beautiful and inviting looking hotel and patio bar that were unfortunately closed

for the season.  Venturing another 25 miles south, we entered Conception Bay where we visited Geary

Ritchie, the famous cruisers' weatherman, in Playa El Burro, and visited the fantastic and unique

National Outdoor Leadership School in Playa Coyote.

Late-October, 2011 - We swam, hiked, snorkeled and relaxed at lovely La Ramada Cove and Isla

Coronado, two of the Sea's quintessential tropical anchorages.  A little culture, civilization and

provisioning at Loreto followed by a fuel stop at Puerto Escondido got us ready for a few more weeks

of remote anchorages on our way south.  Helping a struggling boater into Puerto Ballandra, a small

bay that is invisible without radar, and witnessing the remains of an unfortunate boating accident

reminded us that the idyllic moments are very precious, as challenges lie in wait for us at every turn.

Early November, 2011 - We visited tiny Isla Coyote, one of the few inhabited islands in the Sea of Cortez,

and discovered a whimsically decorated and once tight-knit community whose 30 residents had dwindled

to just one man and his dog.  Next door, Isla San Francisco treated us to a very special avian visit, and

Ensenada Grande a few miles south, offered up a 20 Euro note from its depths.  Puerto Balandra gave us

an idyllic tropical setting of crystalline water and white sand beaches.

Mid-November, 2011 - An impending Norther sent us into La Paz where we returned to some favorite

haunts and got our water heater repaired.  Groovy joined the other anchored boats in the La Paz Waltz

when the winds piped up.  Better weather sent us back out to the nearby anchorages of Playa Bonanza

and Bahía Falsa (Pichilingue) where we met some Germans on an epic cycling tour.

 

Adventures with Mark & Emily

 

Home  |  Route  |  News  |  RVing  |  Rigs  |  CruisingBoats  |  Articles  |  MapsSearch